MY FRENCH GIFT TO YOU

Two of our kiddos just returned from an amazing journey that began in Barcelona and ended in Paris,  with a leisurely road trip up through Provence in between. They are now basking in the giddy afterglow, pouring over photos, telling stories, trying out recipes, etc. I remember that period well, after we did our Viking River Cruise through Provence. Paris was gorgeous, but Provence? Well, it was so much more than a bunch of famous landmarks to have your photo taken in front of. It's about a certain way of living -- the way we were hoping to live here in the Texas Hill Country, and our reason for choosing this as our forever home.

After that trip I was even more obsessed with that way of life, and may have gone a bit bonkers in my efforts to hold onto that glow. I read books set in Provence, bought French cookbooks, poured over all the photos we took and wrote blog posts about it all.

Even the pages in my art journals around that time were all about Provence!

Then, just as the afterglow was beginning to fade, I discovered a blog called My French Corner. It's not specifically about Provence, but it is about the French way of life -- about how they eat and shop and cook, what they think about exercise and skin care and clothes, how they decorate and celebrate, etc. It's actually written by an American teacher whose sister married a Frenchman and went to live there permanently. The teacher then began spending her summers there and fell madly in love with the French way of life. When she had shared all that she had learned, she stopped writing the blog. But, it is still out there, just waiting for you to stumble upon it as I did, start from the very beginning and work your way through to the end.

 
 Bon Voyage!
 

ACCIDENTAL FRENCH TOURISTS IN OHIO

Just got back from Middletown, Ohio -- setting for the Hillbilly Elegy book and where Ron Howard is now shooting the film version. We were there to visit Hubby's big bro and his family, and on our first day there, the guys did what they always do. They got up early and headed out in search of the manliest, greasiest breakfast they could find, and we wives didn't dare interfere. It's a tradition! Sister-in-law Priscilla is not a morning person, so by the time she was up and moving, the guys were back and ready to head out for a day in Cincinnati. First stop? Findlay Market, reminiscent of the wonderful covered markets you might find in Paris and Provence.

Mike and Prisi were leaning towards grabbing some yummy sausages or salads and going outside to eat, but Hubby and I wheedled a bit and convinced them to try the cute cafe we'd spotted across the street, so we could sit in air conditioned comfort. Turned out to be our best decision of the day!

Apparently Jean Robert has other larger, fancier restaurants around town, but this little cafe specializes in delicious French omelettes, salads and sandwiches made on wonderful French bread -- just what you might crave after a morning shopping at the market!

Then we were off to the Taft Museum of Art, where they just happened to be hosting an exhibit called L'Affichomania -- The Passion for French Posters!

Our last stop before heading off to meet the kids for dinner was at my favorite little gift shop/bakery from our last visit there, French Rendez-Vous. Priscilla had called ahead to reserve some fresh-out-of-the-oven chocolate and almond croissants for our breakfast the next day, and we bought a couple of yummy macarons to munch on while we wandered the rooms filled with French antiques and tablecloths from Provence.

The most amazing thing about the day? We did not even plan this French-themed day. It just happened!

CASTLES IN THE AIR

On our last day in Lisbon, before moving on to Porto, we took a little side trip to the town of Sintra -- "a fairytale romantic city of castles, monuments, and palatial estates." Our first stop was the ruins of a mountaintop fortress built by the Moors in the 9th century.

The gardens were every bit as amazing as the ruins.

Mounds of Bleeding Heart

It was starting to rain by the time we got to this level, and the stone paths had become quite slippery, so I stopped and got a cup of hot tea instead of climbing to the tippy top. But not my crazy hubby! I think he regretted it later, but at least there were no injuries.

From there a bus took us to Pena Palace, a Romanticist summer retreat for the royal family, which King Ferdinand had built on the site of a monastery that was destroyed in the great earthquake. Well, the bus took us as close as it could get to the palace. Which wasn't actually all that close. Then there was quite a long hike, uphill all the way, in the pouring rain.

Although I was loathe to admit it at the time, it was probably worth having to spend the rest of the day in soggy clothes. Especially when we stumbled upon a delightful place near the train station, where we could have lunch before departing. Half of our group went into the more formal restaurant side, and the rest of us went next door to their wine bar.

All ended up pleased as punch with their choices!

THE COLORS AND PATTERNS OF PORTUGAL

One of the first things you are sure to notice upon your arrival in Portugal is the Calçada Portuguesa -- the black and white limestone mosaics covering the sidewalks and plazas. Each one unique, yet unifying.

Beautiful, but dangerous. For one thing, they can be very slippery when wet, and we had more than a few drizzly days. Also, there are so very many of these in Portugal that they just can't keep up with the repairs, and you are liable to twist an ankle stepping into a hole, if you don't pay attention. How women manage to traverse these in stilettos, I will never know.

Then there is all the beautiful tile work gracing many of their buildings, much of it dating back to the times when Portugal was occupied by the Moors.

Pieces Found For Sale At The Thieves Market

My very favorite colors and patterns, however, were found in the bits and pieces of Art Nouveau architecture that were sprinkled about.

All in all, a most beautiful country!

PLANES, TRAINS, BOATS AND TROLLEYS

There are so many ways to get around in Portugal, and we used them all! The first thing our tour guide did in both Lisbon and Porto was to hand us each a little 3-day card she had purchased for us, that not only allowed us access to all public transportation but also got us discounts or even free entry into many of the local museums and attractions.

We rode trolleys...

The Famous #28 Trolley in Lisbon

trains...

Train Station in Porto

took a river cruise down the Douro river...

and, of course, there was a marvelous underground metro system in both Lisbon and Porto which we utilized every day. Why-oh-why can't we have something like that in Texas? Just think of all the drunk-driving fatalities we could avoid if only we had decent public transportation!

Even their turquoise-topped-taxis were lovely.

Unfortunately, this guy below never came out to offer me a ride, no matter how long I lurked around his bike.

Note The Picnic Basket and Flower

Of course, our  favorite way to get around when we travel is by foot, because that is where all the very best discoveries are made -- like this fabulous tea shop we stumbled upon after we rode the trolley all the way to the end and decided to work our way back to our hotel on foot.

Alas, now we are back at home, where we must depend on our cars for absolutely everything!